Lessons on Paris

Having spent three days in Paris, I'm beginning to see a lot more than the average tourist would see in a usual fly-by-night visit. I'm slowly becoming more aware of the Parisian lifestyle, and am beginning to get the hang of the bus, metro and regional train systems.

I have learnt that there are certain rules to Paris. These include, but are not limited to:

1. No one will speak to you unless you speak to them.

2. You've got less of a chance that they wil speak to you if you dont speak their language.

3. You need to find common ground with them. You need to find the thing that is universally understood or shared before you can connect with them. This can be anything from going up and patting their dog and saying "J'Mappelle" which is as close to "name" as I can work out, to joining them in rolling your eyes at a rude tourist. Or if you are patting their dog, you give it your best shot to guess the dog's breed. Usually they are called the same thing in each country. I then say "Pardon, Englais" which is an apology for lack of french understanding. They will mostly smile as you pay attention first to their dog and then to them.

4. Always address them straight away, for example "Bonjour Monsiour" even if they are looking away. If they here it, they look up and will say "Bonjour" back. If I want to sit down somewhere or do something particular, you say "Zhe Per" (writing it how its said, not spelt!). That is "may i?". This can be used for a lot of things, including at train stations if you want a ticket. Usually I can say "may i?" in french and then swap to English to say "ticket". Parisians seem to like it that you've atleast given it a go.

The most important rule I have learnt over the past 24 hours is that you should always be vigilent. I've been approached by normal anglo saxon white men dressed well with not so normal intentions. I always start to get a bit suspicious of them once they begin to ask whether I am on my own or in a group. I of course have learnt to lie, by saying that I am in a group, and that I would be re-joining them (*quick glance at watch*) in about fifteen minutes. Often enough, they leave the conversation at that. Its concerning the number of times it has happened.

*tune out, Mum!*

Last night, I was enjoying the beautiful view of the Lourve by night. Then I was approached by a weirdo. He asked the usual "where am I from?" "how long am I here" and of course the "are you with a group or on your own?" As usual, I said that I was with a group and that I would be meeting back up with them at (*exaggerated glance at watch*) fifteen minutes. He, unlike the others, did not leave it there. He asked if i would like to "go for a walk". Sensing that this was odd, I made him repeat the question again. He stammered and said "Walk? You like to walk with me?".

ARE YOU KIDDING ME?

Firstly, it was dark. In hindsight, I shouldnt have been there, even though it was a major tourist attraction. I was female and I was on my own. I was stupid.

Secondly, he was a stranger and what naive, silly female would accept an offer to go for a walk from a stranger in her own country, let alone a foreign one?!

Thirdly, and what has mostly stuck in my head, was the fact that this guy wasnt normal after all. He couldnt hold my gaze, was chewing gum profusely and while it was almost 2 degrees celcius outside, he was sweating. After a kind rejection of "Erm, I dont think so", I high-tailed it out of there and didnt look back.

For the first time in all of my travels over the years, I felt as though my safety was at risk, and that I was way out of my league being out in the middle of Paris at night on my own. Incidents like that made me realise that I am not so invincible, and even though I had taken precautions by staying in well lit areas, not carrying too many valuable items, etc, my safety was still at risk just being there. So, as I took the bus home, I took out my newly purchased Swiss Army knife and kept it in my pocket, "just in case". Who knows that I would have done with it if I was approached again!!!! I wouldnt know how to threaten someone!!! But it still gave me a feeling of security (albeit still small) in order to get me home.

After that, while it wasnt a major incident, it was enough for me to become a little more serious about my security, and not take my independence too much for granted.

Today, despite being a little wound up after last night, I still managed to have probably the best day on tour yet. I left the frenetic Paris pace behind and took a train out to Versailles, which is about half an hour out. Versailles was once the political capital of France, and around the 17th Century, Louis XIV (who was known for his extravagence) built himself a massive Chateau. Despite the freezing cold, I managed to find the serenity that I was in dire need of, after being in Paris. The Chateau is spread over hundreds of hectares, with perfectly manicured gardens and huge trees that drop their crispy leaves every time the autumn winds would blow. I spent much of the day trying out different styles of photography and have so many pictures its to the point of nauseam. I have photographers fatigue! The rest of the afternoon was spent on a rickety old bicycle, which I rode around the sparse, but peaceful, Chateau gardens. It was how I imagined I would be spending my time in France. I loved every moment of it.

Heading home, I was at the mercy of Parisian industrial action. Yes, ironically enough, all metro, bus and regional transport staff were on strike!!! I wandered around Versailles jammed station trying to look for a union delegate or officer, but then I realised that given my very average French, I wouldnt have been able to negotiate an outcome for either party this time. However, I did look through my French dictionary for the following words:

"we're workers united, we'll never be defeated."

I couldnt work it out, so I instead directed my efforts towards trying to get a train back into Paris rather than causing industrial trouble in a forgein country.

The regional trains were fine enough to work out during the strike, but the metro was another story. Either it was the strike, or it was peak time (or a combination of both), getting on the metro was like running the gauntlet seen last on Gladiator (a terrible, corny australian TV show axed back in the 90's). After climbing up onto the back of some poor fellow and stage diving my way into the middle of the carriage, I then had to clutch my belongings close to me to ensure that a Snoop Dogg look-a-like didnt steal anything. I wasnt so concerned about my backpack with my camera, passport, or wallet, but I just didnt want him taking any of the groceries that I had purchases back at Versailles for my dinner tonight.

After scenes similar to that of a mosh pit, upon arriving at Anvers, my metro station, I have a definate height and weight disadvantage and there was a fear that I wouldnt get out of the carriage in time before the doors shut. So, I dropped to the floor and commando rolled my way out instead. Okay, maybe that was a little exaggerated, but I used my lack of height to squeeze my way under people to get out. In hindsight, it was darn funny.

Tomorrow, I am heading back out of Paris on another day trip, this time out west to Normandy, and in particular, Mont St. Michel which is apparently a pretty amazing part of France. I'm desperate to take photos of Paris by night, including the Eiffel Tower lit up, but I think I am going to put my safety first and just by a postcard.

Anyway, this is me signing off cause I want to be back at the hostel before dark. Still not able to post pictures, but I may come back tomorrow to give it another go.

Hooorooo!

K